Finally, we’re leaving Southport

We’ve been waiting nearly a week in Southport for better weather. You might have been imagining that we have been suffering cold winds and rain, but we’ve actually enjoyed very pleasant weather. It has been ironic that every day has been sunny, warm, dry and calm, and yet the weather forecasts continued to warn of strong winds and big waves. We’ve had no way of telling what the conditions were really like out to sea. So we’ve just had to accept the forecasts and wait in port.

We’re taking advantage of a small weather window to leave tomorrow morning (Sunday, 14 May). We will travel non-stop straight to Airlie Beach. We should arrive by Thursday morning.

Welcome aboard Andrew, John and Karen, who have flown up to join Catherine and Phil for this final sector northbound. The boat has been loaded with food, water, LPG, and diesel. The laundry has been done and beds made. The boat is clean, equipment checked and secured, and our trip logged with AMSA. The weather forecast is good and we have planned our route. Everything is ready to cast off!

The four best things about delivery voyages

Arrived in Southport at 5:30 Sunday morning. It was exciting to see the bright lights of the Gold Coast. But we were not prepared for the kaleidoscope of coloured lights hiding the navigation lights we needed to see our way through the channel in the dark. Adding to the confusion were dozens of small fishing boats buzzing past in the opposite direction. There were red, white and green lights flashing all over the place.

So what makes long delivery voyages so appealing? Why sail day and night rolling through watches, getting fatigued, cold and wind blown? The crew gave these four highlights:

4. Ham-cheese toasties, crisp on outside, oozy on the inside.

3. Wild marine life – playful dolphins, graceful terns, flying fish.

2. Seeing your replacement crew getting dressed just before the start of the 3am watch.

1. The first long, hot shower on shore after days at sea in the same clothes.

Mariners’ big breakfast

David and Brian leave the crew at Southport. Thanks so much for being on board. We appreciate all your help. Especially looking forward to the movie.

Looks like we will be in Southport for some days. Strong winds and big waves are forecast along the Queensland coast for the rest of the week. Andrew and Karen G have decided to return to Melbourne to wait it out, and John remains on standby at home with our frozen provisions. For Karen B, unfortunately the delays mean that she is no longer available for the final sector to Airlie Beach.

Smooth sailing to Southport

We’ve had a wonderful trip from Sydney up the NSW coast. We have enjoyed mild weather, light winds, slight seas, and sunshine for the last 2 days. We are on track to be in Southport early Sunday morning.

Catherine has kept the crew very well fed, with roast lamb, penne bolognese, toasted sandwiches, and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.

David has been busy taking footage of this adventure. Looking forward to another entertaining home movie.

Andrew has been an ever reliable 2IC, plotting courses, keeping Debonnaire on track and setting sails to maximise our speed.

Brian has teamed up with Phil on his watches, doing more than his fair on the helm, while Phil keeps his eye on navigation, weather, fuel, and the keel bolts.

Farewell Eden

Departed Eden at 7:00am with light 5-10kt southwest winds and a gentle rolling sea of 1.0-1.5m swells. Great conditions for heading to Sydney. Only one night at sea before arriving in Sydney on Wednesday afternoon.

Only 4 crew for this short trip: Andrew, Lawry, Catherine and Phil. Unfortunately, Jane didn’t have time to wait in Eden and finish the voyage to Sydney. Thank you, Jane, for helping to get Debonnaire around Bass Strait and up the difficult NSW coast from Gabo Island. Your cookies freshly baked on board were a hit.

Delightful Eden

While waiting in Eden for better weather, we have been fortunate to enjoy the kind hospitality of this seaside village.

We went for a pleasant stroll along the headland to look at the sea, and Lawry caught up with friends from his youth who now live in Eden. On our walk, we stopped at an impressive property overlooking the bay, not sure whether it was a resort or private residence. A car soon arrived, the driver wound down her window, and after a brief chat she invited us to look around her home. It was a spectacular mansion decorated with a huge collection of maritime antiques that rivalled a museum. We couldn’t believe their hospitality towards complete strangers who blew in from Melbourne.

We also enjoyed chats with old seafarers on the wharf, residents in the streets, and locals in the laundromat. A young lad offered us a good-sized fish he had just caught at the wharf. And a young deckie stopped by to tell me about fishing in gales off Tasmania. So many friendly and interesting people.

It was windy and raining today, so we were mostly confined to the boat. We doubled the lines to make sure we were securely tied to the wharf. Despite being in Snug Cove, the boats were bouncing around as if we’re at sea. Not much to do, but it was definitely better than being at sea in the gale.

The strong winds look like they will be with us for a while. We now hope to leave on Tuesday.

Taking refuge in Eden

It was a dream run through the notorious Bass Strait. But the benign weather conditions didn’t last. After rounding Gabo Island in the early evening, we found ourselves bashing into fresh 15-20 knot winds and 1-2 metre waves (some say 2-3 metres!). We had to slow down to a crawl to stop the boat and ourselves getting a pounding. It was a dark night, so we couldn’t see the big waves until they were upon us. Understandably, half the crew became sick. It was a long night. We were grateful to reach the sheltered port of Eden just after dawn.

The weather wasn’t going to improve, so we decided to rest in Eden for the weekend to let the storm pass.

Port of Eden
Debonnaire and Carpe Diem tucked in among the workboats

Calm across Bass Strait

All going according to plan. Light breezes and slight seas across Bass Strait. The wind has been mostly from ahead, so not much opportunity to set sail. Clear skies have made for sunny days, but we’ve had to add warmer layers at night.

Currently just east of Cape Conran and will be at Gabo Island this evening.

Gentle start

We departed Sandringham on Tuesday 25 April 2023 on a sunny, warm autumn day. We enjoyed light northerlies and calm seas on our way to The Rip. Crossing the heads just after sunset was also calm. Bass Strait greeted us with a gentle rolling swell and a wonderful canopy of stars.

It was a delightful trip overnight to The Prom. Dolphins regularly joined us. Some glowed like ghosts as they swam through bio-luminesent water.

Now rounding The Prom at 10:30 Wednesday. Will probably lose mobile internet and be offline for a while.

Highlights of a memorable voyage

Saturday 28 October 2017
Sandringham

It took me a few days to recover from our trip home. It was a tiring, 10 day voyage. Not from tough weather but simply from 10 days of broken sleep, being on watch, regularly monitoring weather forecasts and frequently checking our course day and night to ensure we were navigating safely.

While cleaning and drying the boat from stem to stern, we have been reminiscing about our adventures over the past 6 months. We have so many wonderful memories, including the following highlights:

  • Sharing tropical cruises to Lizard Island and around the Whitsunday islands with so many friends and family;
  • Seeing amazing sea life, including swimming with turtles, snorkelling among tropical fish and colourful coral, and close encounters with whales at Bait Reef and around the islands;
  • Participating in the spectacle of Hamilton Island Race Week, particularly winning the Prix d’Elegance and building the crew into a team and winning the final race of the regatta;
  • Completing the long delivery voyages, experiencing non-stop travel day and night, after months of planning, preparation and training for the adventure;
  • Soaking in a long shower to washed off all the salt, sweat and sunscreen after several days at sea;
  • Retracing history by following the wakes of Cook and Flinders along the east coast of Australia;
  • Basking in warm, sunny weather throughout winter; and
  • Enjoying Happy Hour every afternoon with a drink and some nibbles while watching yet another beautiful sunset.

 

Lizard map

Of course, not all went according to plan, like the seaweed that wrapped around our propeller on the last day of our voyage home. Back in the marina I got a diver to cut away the seaweed and was stunned to find out it was as big as a bush (the photo below shows less than half the weed). Lucky it only slowed us down and didn’t stop us completely.  There were other challenges during the last 6 months that I didn’t post in this log because some readers might have found them distressing—problems like equipment breaking, sails tearing, seas rough enough to make door handles and ceiling panels fall off, and windy nights when our anchor wouldn’t hold. None of them, however, was perilous and all were dealt with capably.

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Things I won’t miss include:

  • Complying with our strict 3-sheet rule (limiting toilet paper to prevent the boat’s toilets from blocking);
  • Using the public showers at marinas; and
  • Trying to create catchy headlines for blog posts.

Catherine and I are pleased that so many of our family and friends could join us. We had 60 visits, comprising 14 people in Sydney, 4 to and from Lizard Island, 11 for Hamilton Island Race Week and 31 around the Whitsunday islands. We hope you enjoyed your trips as much as we did sharing our adventure with you.

Of course, none of those cruises would have been possible if it were not for the 15 people who helped with the north- and south-bound deliveries. Our thanks to Dino, Andrew, and David who did several legs there and back, as well as Jane, Steve, BJ, Kylie, Paul, Lawry, George, Anne, Gigi, Leanne, Peter and Colin. You did a great job and we appreciate your efforts day and night regardless of the weather.

The other big thank you goes to Paul who inspired this voyage more than 2 years ago. His planning and organising made this ambitious project so much easier for us. It was not only reassuring to travel in tandem with Carpe Diem but also convenient to have her crew diligently catch our lines whenever we arrived in port.

Above all, my praise and appreciation goes to my best mate, Catherine. This trip would not have happened or been as much fun without her laudable contributions. She not only did a fantastic job organising provisions, preparing delicious meals and doing all the housekeeping, but also was a great hand sailing the boat, setting anchor, picking up moorings, going up the mast, leaping onto docks, servicing winches, driving the tender and many, many other tasks essential for keeping ship-shape. I can’t thank her enough for all that she did to make our cruise a happy, memorable adventure. I am so fortunate that she enjoys sailing as much as I do.

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Catherine up the mast: that’s more than twice the height of our 2-story house!

Would we do it again? Definitely. We’ve already started planning our next voyages! Until then…

Débonnaire, out.

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The final challenge

Wednesday 18 October 2017 19:30

Our last day at sea began with a beautiful sunrise over calm waters. Many dolphins accompanied us, swimming beside the boat and leaping out of the water. 

We were ahead of schedule to reach the notorious entrance to Port Phillip known as The Rip. It is safest to cross at slack water between tides, otherwise breaking waves and swirling currents make it treacherous. If you miss slack water then you have to wait 6 hours for the next opportunity to cross. Early in the day we looked like arriving comfortably 2 hours early. But Bass Strait had a few tricks up her sleeve. Mid-morning we were unexpectedly hit with 30 knot winds and rough seas which slowed our progress dramatically. Then, just as the winds moderated, we ran through some seaweed which wrapped around our propeller and triggered the engine’s high temperature alarm. It took some time to try removing it and afterwards we could not maintain proper speed. We set the mainsail to make-up the lost speed. By the time we dealt with those challenges we were struggling to be on schedule but in the end we successfully crossed The Rip, passing the ligbthouse at Point Lonsdale at 13:40. We were relieved and excited to be back inside Port Phillip. Only 6 hours to Sandringham Yacht Club. 

We have been away for 6 months on our wonderful voyage to the Whitsundays and Lizard Island in far north Queensland. Our return trip from Airlie Beach took 10 days of almost non-stop travel to cover 1,570 nautical miles (2,900 km). By the time we tied up in our berth at Sandringham, we had travelled in total more than 5,600 nautical miles (nearly 10,500 km).

Feeling very weary now. I will post more later. Just letting you know we arrived home safely.