We arrived in Airlie Beach on Thursday afternoon after more than 4 days at sea since leaving Southport. I would have posted this update sooner but it’s taken a few days to recover from our trip.
Sector N3 crew, fresh in Southport.
After nearly a week enjoying the comforts of Southport, a small window of better weather opened up. We follow the official forecasts from the Bureau of Meteorology, and also 6 other detailed weather models. All the forecasts predicted moderate winds and seas, but they would be coming from behind us which would have made them tolerable. So we departed Southport as planned. As expected, showers developed and the winds and waves increased a little as we progressed north past Morton Island and then along Fraser Island. Fraser Island is a remote area as it extends east into the Coral Sea, taking boats further away from the mainland. During the first 2 nights, squalls developed unexpectedly. It was time to install the storm boards across the companionway, to keep the storm out of our dimly lit haven below.
Storm boards were essential.
The first couple of squalls lasted maybe 30 minutes each. During the second night, the sky flashed with lightning in spectacular bursts that lit the sky from horizon to horizon. That was the curtain raiser for the biggest squall, a deluge of rain and strong winds to 35 knots that John said lasted for “5 to 6 hours!” of his 3 hour watch. Poor John; every squall coincided with his time on deck. He was definitely out of his comfort zone and into a discomfort zone that wasn’t in the brochure. Thanks John, and all the crew, for keeping watch during the bad weather.
Despite the strong winds, the waves remained much the same at 2 to 3 metres. The sea state even calmed a little. It became less agitated and appeared oily with all the rain pouring down.
Sunrise on day 3 brought better weather. We started to dry out and our appetites returned. We made our way inshore towards Gladstone on the coast to avoid the stronger winds offshore had we followed the direct route to Airlie Beach. However, getting to the more comfortable route meant a slow day into headwinds. But we were grateful the bad weather was behind us.
Early dinner before dark.
For 2 days we could hear on the radio the Marine Rescue authorities conducting a search for a 30ft yacht that got into trouble off Fraser Island. A woman was rescued but the skipper and yacht were never found. The weather was challenging but Debonnaire was well in control and always felt very safe.
Days 4 and 5 of the voyage were sensational. It was sunny and warm. The seas were comfortable with gentle breezes and slight waves from behind. The night skies were clear, filled with brilliant stars and the bright streaks of meteors.
Calmer seas.Smiling again.Beautiful sunrises.All hands on deck! It’s dinner time!
We were about 12 hours behind schedule due to the weather over the first 3 days. We now had to monitor our fuel reserves closely. Food wasn’t a problem though; Catherine always ensures we won’t go hungry, and since we didn’t eat much for the first few days, there was plenty in the pantry.
It was wonderful to be back on familiar waters among the Whitsunday islands. Our spirits were high as we approached Airlie Beach in daylight. But wait! One last hurdle. As we were about the enter the Coral Sea Marina, I noticed the tide was low, and if it was a spring tide our deep keel could get stuck inside the marina. So I did a quick go-around, confirmed all would be well, then finally entered the marina and tied up in our berth, ending our voyage that started in Sandringham 24 days ago. (The tide continued to fall and eventually, a few hours later, Debonnaire was sitting on her keel.)
Celebrating at Coral Sea Marina, Airlie Beach.
The crews of Carpe Diem and Debonnaire had dinner together at a popular restaurant to celebrate. They had long hot showers, clean clothes and a quiet night’s sleep before catching flights back to Melbourne.
Sunset over Coral Sea Marina.
Catherine and Phil have been resting in Airlie Beach for a few days now, enjoying the warm, dry weather. We’ve been slowly doing chores, cleaning up, washing the boat, and repairing some minor damage.
Phil up the mast.
Thank you to Carpe Diem. Paul and her crew have been great company throughout the voyage. It was very reassuring to be travelling in tandem.
A very big thank you to the crew of Debonnaire. You had to dig deep to get through the first few days after Southport, and then continue with the watches without a break until we reached Airlie Beach. It was challenging and tiring.
Thank you, also, to the crew who helped on the previous sectors. You, too, had your challenges. We’ve enjoyed having all the crew with us on this adventure and hope you found the experience fun and rewarding.
We’ve been waiting nearly a week in Southport for better weather. You might have been imagining that we have been suffering cold winds and rain, but we’ve actually enjoyed very pleasant weather. It has been ironic that every day has been sunny, warm, dry and calm, and yet the weather forecasts continued to warn of strong winds and big waves. We’ve had no way of telling what the conditions were really like out to sea. So we’ve just had to accept the forecasts and wait in port.
We’re taking advantage of a small weather window to leave tomorrow morning (Sunday, 14 May). We will travel non-stop straight to Airlie Beach. We should arrive by Thursday morning.
Welcome aboard Andrew, John and Karen, who have flown up to join Catherine and Phil for this final sector northbound. The boat has been loaded with food, water, LPG, and diesel. The laundry has been done and beds made. The boat is clean, equipment checked and secured, and our trip logged with AMSA. The weather forecast is good and we have planned our route. Everything is ready to cast off!
Arrived in Southport at 5:30 Sunday morning. It was exciting to see the bright lights of the Gold Coast. But we were not prepared for the kaleidoscope of coloured lights hiding the navigation lights we needed to see our way through the channel in the dark. Adding to the confusion were dozens of small fishing boats buzzing past in the opposite direction. There were red, white and green lights flashing all over the place.
So what makes long delivery voyages so appealing? Why sail day and night rolling through watches, getting fatigued, cold and wind blown? The crew gave these four highlights:
4. Ham-cheese toasties, crisp on outside, oozy on the inside.
2. Seeing your replacement crew getting dressed just before the start of the 3am watch.
1. The first long, hot shower on shore after days at sea in the same clothes.
Mariners’ big breakfast
David and Brian leave the crew at Southport. Thanks so much for being on board. We appreciate all your help. Especially looking forward to the movie.
Looks like we will be in Southport for some days. Strong winds and big waves are forecast along the Queensland coast for the rest of the week. Andrew and Karen G have decided to return to Melbourne to wait it out, and John remains on standby at home with our frozen provisions. For Karen B, unfortunately the delays mean that she is no longer available for the final sector to Airlie Beach.
We’ve had a wonderful trip from Sydney up the NSW coast. We have enjoyed mild weather, light winds, slight seas, and sunshine for the last 2 days. We are on track to be in Southport early Sunday morning.
Catherine has kept the crew very well fed, with roast lamb, penne bolognese, toasted sandwiches, and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.
David has been busy taking footage of this adventure. Looking forward to another entertaining home movie.
Andrew has been an ever reliable 2IC, plotting courses, keeping Debonnaire on track and setting sails to maximise our speed.
Brian has teamed up with Phil on his watches, doing more than his fair on the helm, while Phil keeps his eye on navigation, weather, fuel, and the keel bolts.
Just over 24 hours in Sydney and we’re on our way again.
Eden to Sydney was a good trip. Definitely worth waiting in Eden for the bad weather to pass. We had good cruising conditions most of the time. During the last 6 hours, we had strengthening headwinds, reaching 30 knots as we neared Sydney Heads. We stayed close to shore where the waves were smaller and manageable. We reached the calm waters of Sydney Harbour at 3:00pm Wednesday, and berthed at CYCA.
Sydney Harbour is so spectacular. It’s always exciting being on the water and see the famous landmarks.
Arriving in Sydney
After a good night’s sleep, we had a busy day preparing for the next sector to Southport: shopping for food, refuelling, checking the engine, cleaning the boat.
We said goodbye to Lawry and thanked him for helping to get Debonnaire to Sydney. Unfortunately, he developed a head cold, and it was best he recuperated at home rather than continue on to Southport. We’ll miss his help looking after the diesel engine.
We welcomed Brian and David aboard. That gave us a crew of 5, one less than planned after Lawry’s departure.
We left Sydney as the sun set on the Harbour Bridge on Thursday. Outside The Heads, we had awesome conditions, broad-reaching down 2 metre waves in 15 knot winds, with a starry sky and big moon glistening on the ocean.
The Southport crew leaving Sydney
If our timing is right, then we should reach Southport on Sunday morning, so that we can cross the Seaway (the bar) after sunrise at 6am and before high tide at 9am.
Departed Eden at 7:00am with light 5-10kt southwest winds and a gentle rolling sea of 1.0-1.5m swells. Great conditions for heading to Sydney. Only one night at sea before arriving in Sydney on Wednesday afternoon.
Only 4 crew for this short trip: Andrew, Lawry, Catherine and Phil. Unfortunately, Jane didn’t have time to wait in Eden and finish the voyage to Sydney. Thank you, Jane, for helping to get Debonnaire around Bass Strait and up the difficult NSW coast from Gabo Island. Your cookies freshly baked on board were a hit.
While waiting in Eden for better weather, we have been fortunate to enjoy the kind hospitality of this seaside village.
We went for a pleasant stroll along the headland to look at the sea, and Lawry caught up with friends from his youth who now live in Eden. On our walk, we stopped at an impressive property overlooking the bay, not sure whether it was a resort or private residence. A car soon arrived, the driver wound down her window, and after a brief chat she invited us to look around her home. It was a spectacular mansion decorated with a huge collection of maritime antiques that rivalled a museum. We couldn’t believe their hospitality towards complete strangers who blew in from Melbourne.
The wheel from Pirates of the Caribbean (that’s Phil, not Johnny)Not one but five binnaclesIndoor swimming pool converted to “The Schooner Lounge”More treasures
We also enjoyed chats with old seafarers on the wharf, residents in the streets, and locals in the laundromat. A young lad offered us a good-sized fish he had just caught at the wharf. And a young deckie stopped by to tell me about fishing in gales off Tasmania. So many friendly and interesting people.
It was windy and raining today, so we were mostly confined to the boat. We doubled the lines to make sure we were securely tied to the wharf. Despite being in Snug Cove, the boats were bouncing around as if we’re at sea. Not much to do, but it was definitely better than being at sea in the gale.
The strong winds look like they will be with us for a while. We now hope to leave on Tuesday.
It was a dream run through the notorious Bass Strait. But the benign weather conditions didn’t last. After rounding Gabo Island in the early evening, we found ourselves bashing into fresh 15-20 knot winds and 1-2 metre waves (some say 2-3 metres!). We had to slow down to a crawl to stop the boat and ourselves getting a pounding. It was a dark night, so we couldn’t see the big waves until they were upon us. Understandably, half the crew became sick. It was a long night. We were grateful to reach the sheltered port of Eden just after dawn.
The weather wasn’t going to improve, so we decided to rest in Eden for the weekend to let the storm pass.
Port of EdenDebonnaire and Carpe Diem tucked in among the workboats
All going according to plan. Light breezes and slight seas across Bass Strait. The wind has been mostly from ahead, so not much opportunity to set sail. Clear skies have made for sunny days, but we’ve had to add warmer layers at night.
Currently just east of Cape Conran and will be at Gabo Island this evening.